Saturday, 5 March 2016

Bali: The Start of the Asian Adventure

2nd-7th January 2016

Here we go then. The start of a new chapter

I’ve had this planned for ages. I had originally intended to travel through South East Asia before I did my second year in Australia so I’ve been waiting for this for over a year! In fact I first started looking into this when I was working in Franz Josef at the end of 2013! In the two years since I have revised the plan a few times but never did I intend to go Bali but that is where I find myself. Bali has been described to me as Australia’s Magaluf. Its where the Aussies go to get drunk and cause chaos and so I wanted to avoid it.

Having said that, it worked out cheaper for me to fly from Cairns to Bali before continuing on to Singapore rather than going straight there so that is what I did. I arrived at the airport in Bali at a very early 2am on Saturday 2nd January. I found myself a comfy sofa in the airport to get a few hours sleep so that the sun would be up when I took on my first ever day in South East Asia.

The sofa was surprisingly comfortable actually and I wasn’t the only one there so I felt a bit safer. Initially when I had come out from arrivals I was greeted like a celebrity by the taxi drivers. Every one of them, and there were a lot, wanted to talk to me and take me where I needed to go. Now, though, they weren’t many taxi drivers around. I managed to find one and he took me to my accommodation.

Fancy dorm room
Wow they drive crazy here! There may well be painted lanes on the road but they are completely ignored by all the cars. If there's a space then they’ll drive into it and all the other tiny spaces are occupied by the thousands of motorbikes. Red lights are optional too. It really is amazing that there aren’t accidents. I’m sure there are some but I never saw any despite the amount of mental driving.

I arrived at my booked accommodation at 6am which is the time I said I would be there for. There was no one there to check me which was probably a blessing as I noticed a sign on the wall. Someone had written “WARNING BED BUGS!” and stuck a tissue with a dead bed bug on it underneath the writing. This was enough to put me off and I quickly started trying to source alternative accommodation. I found a hostel just the other side of the main road that seemed good and it was cheaper.

I actually met the girl that had made that note in this hostel. She told me she had had an argument with the owner who wouldn’t believe her that she had been bitten by bed bugs until she found one. Once she found one the owner ran away and wouldn’t talk to her so she made the sign which seemingly hadn’t been noticed by the owner yet.

Down the road
There was a bit of a mix up at this new accommodation. I paid in the morning at about 7am. I thought I had been allowed to check in early but all that had happened is I paid for a full nights accommodation and they wanted me to pay again. I wasn’t happy and managed to negotiate a half price for the few extra hours I had spent in the room.

After grabbing a shower and having a little sleep I went to explore the town of Sanur. I had tried to avoid the party scene of Kuta on the other side of the island. This place was still very touristy but there weren’t any party bars here. I ate lunch at a restaurant just around the corner from my hostel. I had a chicken sandwich. I wasn’t too keen on trying the local foods just yet. I was too hungry!

Sanur Beach
I went down to the beach in the afternoon. I only went for a look. I thought I would go for a nice casual stroll along it. Unfortunately if you’re not walking quick enough then you will be harassed by every Tom, Dick and Harry trying to sell you something or other. I had one Indonesian woman offer me a ‘happy ending massage’. I had been told that I would probably be offered this but I didn’t expect it on my first day. I laughed and refused.

Hired a scooter!
Now that I had had sleep I decided to throw myself into all things Asian. The best way to get around Bali is a scooter. I realise this would be throwing myself in at the deep end but I might as well. I hired a scooter for a couple of days. The woman asked if had ridden one before. I said “yes but could you just show me how it works again”. She must have realised that by the time I drove off that I hadn’t really got clue what I was doing.

I drove around for an hour to get used to it before a big drive tomorrow. Turns out its either really easy or I’m just a natural. It was a reasonably quite area so it wasn’t too mad and I was able to get the hang of it quite well. Tomorrow would be a different story.

Local restaurant
Good food
I went back to hostel and got chatting to a couple people hanging out in the pool. There was a Brazilian man who had been here for a couple of weeks and seemed to be the go to man for information on things. He and I with, a couple of others, went to this local Indonesian place for food. It was kind of buffet style where I could just point at things that looked nice and they were serve it up for me. I went back there a few times as it was a great way to try all the different things. A full meal plus a drink was $2. Such a bargain. The restaurant I had lunch in was way more than that.

Local petrol station
I got myself a sim card after dinner which would come in hardy for maps the next day. Whilst we were doing this my new Brazilian friend pointed out the local petrol station. A set of jars containing petrol! Weird!

Scooter adventure
I set off on my scooter very early the next day. The plan was to drive to Ubud and see a few sights around that area. I was fully convinced that I would seriously hurt myself on this bike trip but I set off anyway. The first part was a little scary when I found myself on a highway with 6 lanes at one point! I stuck to the inside and decided everyone can just go round me. It got a little easier as I drove up into the hills.

No tourists here
It may not seem it but there is a system. The only rule is don’t crash into the person in front of you. Undertaking is fine, including going up onto the pavement. Overtaking on blind corners is also perfectly fine although extremely dangerous. There was a moment when I came to a corner to see two cars driving side by side coming towards me! Somehow he managed to pull in before I got to him. Like I said earlier, its madness but somehow it works and no one crashes. Only westerners that are too scarred or hesitant have the accidents. You just got to go with it.

Volcano
I loved it! I had so much fun driving these roads up into the hills. Once I was out of town the scenery became spectacular. I drove through villages and saw locals. No touristy shops or masseurs offering happy endings!

Waterfalls
The first stop I made was at Tegenungan Waterfalls. Here, the touristy stuff returned but they were still setting up and didn’t bother me too much. I walked down to waterfall just as a group was leaving and I had the place to myself.

Scary bamboo bridge
There was a little bamboo bridge to cross the river which was very sketchy and I very nearly fell in. There were a lot of steps here and climbing back up nearly killed me. I was so hot and sweaty by the time I got to the top. Some of locals saw me and laughed!

New fashion accessory
Back on the bike the next stop was Goa Gajah Temple where I had to wear a sarong to cover my knees. This did not help with the heat issue I has having.

Temple pond
AHHH
Elephant Cave
This was my first temple in Asia and it was pretty good. Not very big and I think when I’ve seen a thousand this won’t be a highlight but I enjoyed it all the same. There was a little cave thing that I couldn’t decide if it looked comical or terrifying but I went inside all the same. The inside was just a hole. Nothing special.

Inside the elephant cave
More temple things
I continued to walk around and look at things. I saw some people getting a tour and thought this might be a better way to do it so that I would get some understanding of the place but I’m on budget and time constraints.

Monks house
Whilst I was wandering I suddenly realised I had stumbled into a monks house! It was pretty basic so I didn’t notice at first but then I saw the bed! I think it was OK to be there but I left quickly just in case.

Cool roots
Nice pond
Its not real
I went down into the garden area which was very pretty. Then I handed back my sarong and carried on my do-it-yourself temple tour.

Rice paddies
The wild
Next stop was Gunung Kawi. I needed to borrow a sarong here too. I walked past a couple of rice paddies on the way into the temple. This area was stunning. It was like a proper jungle. It is a proper jungle!

Time for a sprinkle
Just before I entered the temple I came across this bowl of water and the sign asking you to sprinkle holy water on my head before I went in. I did this whilst feeling like an utter twat and entered.

Awesome!
Temple Temple
Again, its not real!
The main area of this temple was pretty cool. It had river flowing through the middle of it with a bridge connecting the two sides. It was very picturesque indeed.

Bedroom?
Bedrooms?
I came across these deep holes cut into the rock and I think the monks used to (or maybe still do) live in them. I might be completely wrong on that though. It was definitely lunch time now so I jumped back on the scooter and headed for the town of Ubud.

Ubud market
I had lunch at a restaurant in Ubud. It was a little expensive but I thought I’d treat myself. Then I went to have a look at the markets there. There were loads of stalls but only perhaps three different type of stalls. It was like an old school cartoon when you see the same things going past on a loop. I tried my hand at bartering for the first time when I bought a t-shirt. The woman was a seasoned professional and I was a complete newb so its fair to say I was had!

Monkeys
I went down to the Monkey Forest in the afternoon. It was my first time seeing monkeys in Asia but I soon came to realise they are actually everywhere and I needn’t have paid entry to this park.

Monkey Forest
Cute baby monkey!
I’ve never seen baby monkeys before so that was quite exciting. It was fun just to watch them wrestling with each other and then bug momma gave them a look and they stopped immediately.

Munching on a stick
Even without the monkeys the park itself was pretty nice to walk around. There was a temple in the middle that was actually closed. There was also this questionable statue.

That a stick your holding?
Clapping monkey
I saw one of the conservation workers teaching one of the monkeys to clap. If he clapped he would get a treat.

Large green lion
The theif
There were a few monkeys fighting over a bracelet that one of them had no doubt stole from an unsuspecting tourist. To be honest it was just as entertaining watching monkeys outsmart the dumb tourists. You really think you can open a bag of chrisps, give the money one and then put the rest back in your bag?! Don’t think so. I saw one girl do this and they jumped all over her until she dropped the bag. They got the chrisps as well as a bottle of water and her sunglasses! Mugged!

Wow
Just chillin
At the bottom of the park was a stunning bridge. It would have been an amazing little spot to sit and watch the monkeys but it was a tourist hotspot and packed with people.

That was the end of my mini roadtrip. I headed back to Sanur just before rush hour kicked in. It was still very busy though as I came into town and it was a lot scarier than at any point in the day. At one point I had to cross four lanes of traffic so that I could take the right turning. Again, I’m amazed I didn’t see any one crash and even more amazed that I managed to go the whole day without any incident. I had heard that the police here are prone to “fining” people that don’t have an international license but I guess they’re off on Sundays.

BINTANG!
Live music
I went back to the same place for dinner after recommending to a couple of people who had just arrived and they joined me. I went to test out the local beer, Bintang, at a place near our hostel. They had live music and a guy called Pierce and I stayed for a drink. We decided to avoid this unfortunately named place.

Really?
I had to make a choice. There were two other things I wanted to do. The plan was to do the hike to the top of Mt Batur volcano and then the next day go the Gilli Islands which had been highly recommended to me. Unfortunately I couldn’t book the trek in time so I would need to wait a day. The choice was a tropical beach or a massive hike. For most people it would be a no-brainer but I went for the hike. I would see plenty of tropical beaches in the months to come.

On Mt Batur
I got picked up at the ungodly hour of 1.30am. I know, its ridiculous! But, being a sunrise trek, you had to get to the top of the mountain before sunrise! There were a few pickups after me and then we had a hours drive before we got to the place where we had breakfast. It was here when everyone woke up and started to talk to each other. We had quite the mix of people. It was mostly an older group of people with real lives and real jobs.

Sweaty but worth it
We had another drive to get to the bottom of the volcano where we started the hike. It was probably a good thing you couldn’t see how high it was when we started because it was a massive effort. Your body is telling you that you should be asleep but instead you’re killing yourself trying to get up a very steep mountain. We got to the top just as the glow from behind the mountain opposite started to get brighter.

Epic view
Sunrise
We stayed up there to watch the sunrise which was truly magnificent. As the day slowly dawned the surrounding land became more visible and it was a fantastic view. We were stood on the edge of a volcano crater which seemed to be within a larger crater that went right around to the mountain opposite. Inside it was a large lake and rice paddies.

Beautiful
The summit
The crater
We went down from the summit to a little plateau where we had a very questionable banana sandwich. Then it was time to make the big descent all the way back to the bus.

Definitely morning now
Mount Batur
Once we were back at the bus we could look back at the whole mountain and congratulate ourselves on our achievement.

Hot pools
Fried banana
The fun didn’t stop there. As an added bonus to our tour we went to some hot springs where we were given more banana. This time fried! It was better than the sandwich. It was a nice little spot. I don't think they were natural hot pools but it was very nice to sit in them and chat to everyone on the tour.

The lake
with fish
Interesting spellings
We were there for about an hour before we started to question how much longer we would be there for. It wasn’t even midday yet but we were tired. I certainly was. Apparently it was up to us when we wanted to leave although our guide never told us that. We said we were ready yo go and we went for lunch. This was included in the tour along with a foot massage.

Lunch time
The lunch was actually really good. A lot better than the variations of banana we had been given so far. Whilst we ate we took it in turns to get our foot massage. I’ve never had a massage before of any kind. It was OK I suppose. That was until she pulled on my toes until they cracked. I didn't enjoy that so much!

Back to the airport
I spent the rest of that day and the day after chilling in and around the pool area. Then it was time for me to leave Bali so I jumped into a very questionable looking taxi to the airport where I could sit back and admire the Balinese driving one last time.

My next destination, Singapore!

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