Sunday, 10 July 2016

The Two Koreas

28th May – 1st June 2016

Which screen do I use?
Flush button?
I arrived in the Republic of Korea mid-afternoon. I was expecting Seoul to be a bit futuristic and I wasn’t wrong. The ATM was complex and I struggled to find the correct combination to withdraw cash. What was even more confusing were the toilets. I was trying to find the flush button amongst the many options on the arm rest when a little tube came out and started squirting water everywhere. I quickly left the cubicle.

View from the hostel
A church in this distance
I took a couple of trains on a very fast and efficient system to get to the hostel. The hostel was pretty chilled so after a busy couple of days I thought I would have a quite one that evening. The rooftop of the hostel had a good view so I sat and had a beer up there with a couple of people. I got told off by the hostel owner for not wearing flip flips. He said I would dirty his floor.

A park
The rest of the park
Seoul
The next day I went out to explore the city. Korea had been a bit of a last minute addition to the travel itinerary so I had not put much time into researching places to see whilst I was here. I grabbed a map from reception and set off in the vague direction of the city centre. This hill gave a brilliant view over the whole city, especially at Seoul Tower.

A cafe with a view
Bit hazy
Seoul Tower
The view was so good from the base of the tower that I saw little point in paying the extra to go to the top of it. There were a few places around the base that had thousands of padlocks. If you were into scrap metal then you could make a fortune here.

Lovelocks
Arty picture
Down the other side
Mr Kim Koo
On the way down the other side of the hill I walked past the statue of Kim Koo. I read the sign next to him which told me he was a pioneer in the movement to stop Japan’s occupation and also tried very hard to achieve reunification with the North before being assassinated.

The History Museum
A tower of some sort
An old throne
History seemed like it would be a good topic to explore so I went over the History Museum which is in a very large and imposing building. The museum taught me all about the tribal days and the kingdoms which were united and then split and then reunited again. Each kingdom had its own history and culture. It was interesting but I wanted to learn more about the recent history so the next stop was the War Memorial.

One of the memorial statues
A big bullet
The War Memorial
Heavenly
The actual memorial
I knew very little about the Korean War but this museum gave a good overview of everything. It came about in a similar way to the Vietnamese War with two different ways of moving the country forward after the end of Japanese occupation. The North got help from the Chinese and then invaded the country before they were pushed back with the help of the US and Allied forces. The two sides have signed a cease fire but they are still technically at war. The main thing I wanted to do in Korea was visit the Demilitarised Zone so I booked a tour to do that on my final day.

New friend
Night out
I had an (almost) completely lazy day the next day. It had been a while so I thought it was justified. I did, however, get very drunk and go out. I had spoken to two girls about karaoke and how I was up for going to one of Korea's many karaoke bars. They invited me to join them which I did but there was a catch. We would go to a club until 2/3am and then go to karaoke. Yeah, I wasn’t going to last that long so that kind of fell through but it was good to go out all the same.

LOUD!
It meant I was a little hungover for my DMZ tour that started at 8am the next day. There was a couple of hours drive to get there so I was able to get a bit of extra sleep on the bus but I still wasn’t feeling great. These ladies were very loud and I didn’t appreciate the noise at all. They had the speakers as loud as they would go.


Bridge to nowhere
They were playing on the edge of the DMZ, the last place a civilian was allowed to go (without being on a tour). There was a railway bridge to nowhere as the North won’t allow any trains through. It felt like being on the edge of unknown.

End of the line
Prayers on the fence
A wish for unity
I walked right up to the barbed wire fence to see all the prayers and good will messages attached to it. Our tour guide told us that the overall population (and especially the youth) would really like to be unified with the north. Something she pointed out which I hadn’t notices is that it’s not North Korea and South Korea. Its the Democratic People's Republic of Korea in the north and the Republic of Korea in the South.

Lookout
Model of the DMZ
Pushing the North and South together
The next point on the tour was inside the Demilitarised Zone. It was a bit scary when I saw signs on the fence warning about mines so you wouldn’t want to go wandering off. There was a small centre with a bit of information about the place. We were visiting the Third Tunnel which is one of the many tunnels they’ve found that go under the DMZ and into the South. I had thought the war had ended in  1953 but the North still fully intended to invade the South as late as the 70s.

The tunnel and the access tunnel (bottom right)
The window into the North
We descended 300 metres through a long and steep access tunnel to get into the infiltration tunnel. It was quite narrow and I had to walk bent over to get to the end of it. There isn’t actually all that much to see. They’ve built three concrete walls at the point that marks the border. You can see the North through a small square window from about 10 metres away. You weren’t allowed to take photos so I got a sneaky picture of the CCTV.

Actual North Korea
A northern town
Northern farmers
Perhaps the most exciting part of the day was going to the viewpoint where you can see North Korea. It wasn’t the clearest of days but it was still amazing to see into this forbidden world. I thought these border towns would be abandoned but then I saw actually North Korean people working on the farms. It would fascinating to know what they were thinking. About their lives, their future and why the hell there’s a viewpoint with hundreds of strange looking faces pointing cameras at them.

The flagpoles
There was a great story about these flagpoles. There was a bit of a height race with each side putting up bigger poles. The South thought they had won it when they put up the white 18 metre pole you can just see in the picture but then north bettered it with a ridiculous 160 metre mast.

The border train station ready to go
The capital of the North
There was an agreement by the two Koreas to connect the old railway line from the South through to China in 2000. Only, after they built the railway and the stations, the North increased the rental ten times the agreed amount. The station now sits here idle waiting for the day of reunification. I do wonder if I will see that within my lifetime. If there’ll be some war with the north, possible nuclear, or they would just simple decide to all get along. Not likely, I think.

That was the end of my brief foray into the Republic of Korea. Like China, it’s somewhere I would like to return and fully explore. There is so much more history here than just the Korean War. I would like to go down to the south coast where the culture is meant to be quite different. At least I would be able to fully explore the next country. I had a full month in Japan.

Sunday, 3 July 2016

A Brief Beijing

25th – 28th May

My original plan for mainland China was to be here for a few weeks. I choose instead to go the Philippines as most people I had met had been quite negative about China. Coupled with the fact that getting a visa is a bit of a faff when you are already on the move, I had decided to skip it. Then I found out about the free 72 hour transit visa which is easy to get. I thought it would be good to go to Beijing so that I could visit the wall which was the main thing I had wanted to see anyway.

Big Hong Kong airport
I was convinced that something was going to go wrong with this leg of my trip. Either they wouldn’t let me board the plane in Hong Kong or they wouldn’t let me in at the other end. The 72 visa is still a new thing and there isn’t that much online in the way of people’ experiences trying to use one. Everything went very smoothly, however, and by the evening I found myself in the capital city of China.

Funky Chinese Hostel
China Town?
Could say anything
My hostel was a cool little place on the edge of a central suburb. It was at the end of a street that looked like a Chinatown. I know that sounds ridiculous but I had expected the Chinatowns that I had seen in various cities in the world to be an exaggerated version of the actual place but they aren’t. China actually looks like a Chinatown. Well at least this part of the city did anyway.

The Great Hall of the People
Tiananmen Square
Given that I would only have two full days in Beijing I decided to book a tour with China Highlights in order to see as much as I could. It was a little expensive but it meant that I didn’t have to faff around with public transport and risk missing something good. I would also get a bit of a history lesson from my guide Melinda who was a very nice Chinese student.

Biggest square in the world
The tour is designed for small groups so I was expecting to be with a few other people. There was only one other person on the tour with me and he was only doing the one day. It would just be me and Melinda on the second day. There was the driver too but he didn’t speak much.

The weather was fantastic. I expected to choking on Beijing’s famous smog but it had rained just before I arrived which had cleared the air so to see a bright blue sky was a pleasant surprise.

The Forbidden City
Mao Zedong
The first stop on our trip was Tiananmen Square, the largest city square in the world. On each side are very important buildings. There’s the National Museum of China, Mao Zedong Mausoleum, the Great Hall of the People and, our next stop, the Forbidden City. There’s a large portrait of Mao Zedong at the entrance to the Forbidden City. He was the founding father of the Peoples Republic of China.

Inside the Forbidden City
Standard tourist photo
The Forbidden City (technically called the Palace Museum as it’s no longer forbidden) is a huge complex right in the heart of the city. It was the central seat of power during the Ming and Qing dynasties.
Huge bronze guard
The Chinese Tourist Mob
Our guide had many interesting nuggets of information as we made our way around the complex. I thought it was pretty busy but apparently this was nothing. I found the scrum to get a picture of the throne room quite amusing and more interesting than the actual throne. I don’t consider myself a tall person but in China I am so it was easy to peer over all the heads to get a look at it.

The wardrobe and bedroom
The emperor's bed
The emperor had a big bedroom where he would sleep with several other guards. He would normally not sleep in his own bed so that assassins wouldn’t know which throat to cut. He also had a completely separate building for his wardrobe.

Some temples on the hill
We left the Forbidden City and set off towards the Great Wall. It took two hours to get there so I spent some time chatting to my fellow tour person, Aaron. He was from Australia but lives in Singapore. He was quite a bit older than me and has his own business so we were quite different but we still managed to find things to talk about. Melinda also wanted to know all about the two of us. It often gets a gasp now when I say I’ve been away for nearly four years.

Chair lift to the top
We arrived at the wall and were given two options. Take the cable car up and down or take the chairlift up and the toboggan run down. The choice was easy. The toboggan run was a completely unexpected surprise but I’ll get to that.

That famous wall
A few mountains
Epic scenery
No one around
The Wall was incredible. So much better than I expected. There was barely anyone here! I had expected to be shuffling along behind a massive crowd of people all carrying selfie sticks but there was none of that. There were no tour buses at all. Just a mere scattering of people along the wall. It was such a nice surprise.

East
West
The views of the wall and the surrounding area were stunning. I really didn’t expect it to be anywhere near as good as this. Aaron and I walked along it for a while but it was quite tiring with all the steps. After a while Aaron said he was going to sit in a café and would meet me later. I continued to the end of where you are allowed to walk.

So many steps
Awesome views
The last tower is up a massive set of stairs that nearly killed me. It was a section of the wall that climbs steeply up the side of a mountain. There is a tower half way up which is where you are supposed to stop but there was no way I was leaving a mountain half climbed. I saw others jumping over the wall (a smaller one) and continuing to the top so I followed them. The view from the top of the mountain was again, awesome. I sat there for a little while taking it in. The wall continues for many more kilometres and I really wanted to keep going along it but my time here was nearly up. I had to run on the way back to get to the meeting point on time.

This towers falling down
Weeeee
I met Aaron at the top of the toboggan run. I saw a woman with a young child get on just in front of me and I knew she was going to hold me up. I told Aaron that I would go really slowly to begin with so that I could bomb it half way down. This sort of worked but the woman was going so slowly that I kept catching up to her. I accidently crashed into the back of her towards the end but I wasn’t sorry!

The Cube and the Birdsnest
Communications tower
We made the two hour trip back into the city stopping briefly at 2008 Olympics site. We went to a view point where you could see the Birdsnest and the Cube.

We are famous
There were a couple of women here who really wanted a picture with us. This happened a couple of times of the two days I was here. In fact I noticed a few times that when I looked up, a camera phone would quickly flick away from me. I found this pretty funny but I really hadn’t expected it here. Not in a capital city of a modern country. It felt like I was in Myanmar again.

That evening I went down the road to a bar where I got chatting to some people. There was a hostel attached to the bar that was much busier and much more social than the one I was in. I had a few beers with them before heading back to my hostel.

The Forbidden City
The smog returns
The next day Melinda picked me up once more (this time it was just me) and we went to a park just behind the Forbidden City. At the top of the hill there was a great view of the whole complex although the smog was back.

Hanging tree
Old people dancing
At the bottom of the hill there was a tree where an emperor and his wife had hung themselves. It was an odd tourist attraction. There were also many older people doing a gentle exercise class. Apparently this park is like a communal old person’s playground.

Dancing monk
Writing in Chinese
Then we went over to the Temple of Heaven and walked around the park. There was a monk doing some sort of weird dance and a man writing traditional Chinese on the pavement with water. The water would evaporate almost as soon as he had written it so I’m not too sure what the point in this was.

Real life Tinder
One thing I found really strange was this real life dating site. There were hundreds of people in a corner of the park that were swapping details of their children to other parents in the hope of finding a match for them. There were lines of paper on the ground each giving a description of an eligible bachelor and bachelorette and parents were just walking along casually browsing. It was very odd.
Temple of Heaven
Other temple buildings
After this we carried on to the actual Temple of Heaven which is a pretty impressive round temple in the centre of the park. There was a little museum next to it that explained various features of the temple. Melinda also told me a few things. It was a little weird it just being me and her. I would have preferred to have someone else on the tour with us. She was nice enough. It was just putting an annoying amount of pressure on me to seem interested in what she was saying when I wasn’t always.

The Olympic marathon line
On the way out of the park Melinda pointed out the blue line painted on the ground. It was to mark the marathon run in the Olympics.

Weird instrument
The population is so dense in China that people are living on top of one another. This means that anyone learning to play an instrument will inevitably disturb someone if they practise at their house so instead they come to the park. There must have been about fifty people here with instruments making an absolute racket!

Rose for you
Watering the trees
It was time for lunch. We ate at a local Chinese restaurant that did some very nice food. Melinda and the driver talked between themselves while we ate leaving me to look around the restaurant. I was the only westerner in there.

The cat fish horse deer lion thing
The corridor to nowhere
The last stop on the trip was the Summer Palace. It’s a pretty huge park but we didn’t walk around too much. Melinda showed me a few things but I think I would have preferred exploring this place by myself rather than be escorted around. The long corridor looked pretty cool and made for some nice photos. It was really busy here though so it wasn’t easy to get a good picture.

The Summer Palace
A stone boat
Melinda told me a story about one of the emperor’s daughters who was too afraid to get on a boat on water. The emperor built her a boat made out of stone so she would get over her fear. I’m not sure how this would really have helped.

The Palace
A tower in the distance
Very grand
Big bridge
We jumped on a boat of our own that took us back to the main entrance. It gave a good view of the Summer Palace and the surrounding gardens. I was pretty tired so I was quite happy for the tour to end. It had been an excellent tour and I had crammed a lot into the two days.

My tour guide, Melinda
As I mentioned at the start, the people I have met who have been to China told me about how rude and unhelpful the Chinese are, how the smog is so bad you can barely breath and how it’s just an incredibly frustrating place to be. I didn’t find this at all. In fact I was pleasantly surprised at how much I had actually enjoyed China. Maybe it’s because I had really low expectations but I found it to be a great place. The people were helpful and really nice. I actually wish I could have spent longer here. I think that one day I will return and explore China properly.

Sunrise on the last day
That night I got myself a takeaway pizza (BBQ Chicken, mmm) and had an early night. I was up very early the next day to get to the airport to catch my flight to Korea. There was an Irish guy in my room that had booked a tour to North Korea. Brave. I, on the other hand, was just going to the South.